Top Ten Japanese Castles

Edit 8 October 2019: Updated prices to reflect the increase in Japan's national sales tax.

Earlier in its history, Japan was not one whole country, but a collection of small feudal domains which, coincidentally enough, feuded with each other quite a bit.  During the Warring States period of the mid-to-late 16th century AD, the leaders of these clans built castles to protect themselves.  Even more were built afterwards, when the country was unified and the internally-peaceful Edo Period began.  Today, long after the descendants of those regional leaders needed such physical protection, their castles live on, primary as museums about the history of the castles themselves and the region they represented.

An important distinction to make about Japanese castles is whether or not they are considered "original" castles.  During the Meiji period (1868-1912), when the Emperor regained power and moved the capital to Tokyo, castles were seen as outdated relics of the "primitive" feudal age, and so many were destroyed.  However, most of the destroyed castles were later rebuilt, either with concrete or, especially in recent years, with wood in a more traditional fashion.  Only twelve castles are counted as "original castles", in that they have stood undisturbed since the end of the Edo period.  As part of this list, I will indicate whether or not the castle is part of the original twelve, although just because a castle is not original does not mean it isn't worth your time; far from it.  Also, in the interest of fairness, this list is not ordered by quality, but by geographic location, moving west to east along the country.

1) Shuri Castle, Okinawa
Original: No, rebuilt in 1992

By 663highland (Own work) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Note: Shuri Castle, pictured above, was destroyed again by fire in October 2019.  Current plans are to rebuild the damaged parts by 2026, but the castle park is still open in the meantime.

The islands of Okinawa used to be their own country, the Ryukyu Kingdom, until it was merged into Japanese territory in 1879.  Most Okinawan castles, known in the local language as "gusuku", exist only by their distinctive thick-walled ramparts, but Shuri Castle (首里城, Shuri-jō, Okinawan: Sui Gusuku), near downtown Naha, takes it a step further.  The buildings of the castle were shelled and mostly destroyed near the end of World War II, but have been rebuilt to their original splendour in recent years.  The bright colours and architectural style of the castle's buildings show more of a Chinese influence than may be found elsewhere in Japan, due to Okinawa's closer location to the Asian continent.

Open from 8:30 AM to 7:00 PM; closes at 8:00 PM from July to September, or at 6:00 PM from December to March.  Closed on the first Wednesday and Thursday of July.  Costs ¥830.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

2) Shimabara Castle, Nagasaki Prefecture
Original: No, rebuilt in 1964

663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], from Wikimedia Commons

Moving on to the four main islands of Japan, Shimabara Castle (島原城, Shimabara-jō) stands on the peninsula of the same name, in Kyushu.  Its (reconstructed) keep was larger than those of other castles in the area, and was considered extravagant for its day.  In fact, the heavy taxes collected to pay for its construction, as well as the persecution of Christians at the same time, helped trigger the Shimabara Rebellion of 1637-8.  Unfortunately, this did nothing to improve the lives of Christians at the time.  But with that behind us, the multi-tiered keep of the modern Shimabara castle is painted a brilliant white, providing a contrast with Kumamoto Castle, just across the bay, which you can even see from the 5th-floor viewing deck.  Among the castle's other structures, one of its turrets houses a museum of Seibo Kitamura (北村 西望, Kitamura Seibō, 1884-1987), a sculptor who designed the statue of the Nagasaki Peace Park.

Open from 7:00 AM to 5:30 PM.  Closed on 29 and 30 December.  Costs ¥550.  More information: (Japanese)

3) Matsue Castle, Shimane Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1611 (main keep only)

By 663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Matsue Castle (松江城, Matsue-jō) is the first "original" castle on this list, meaning that its main keep has survived demolition since the start of the Meiji period, when quite a few castles were destroyed, having been seen as outdated relics of the previous feudal era.  While only its black-clad keep and a few walls remain today, its other buildings having been dismantled during the Meiji era, the keep is nonetheless a mighty one.  There is a former samurai district just across the moat from Matsue Castle, including a former home of Lafcadio Hearn, a.k.a. Yakumo Koizumi (小泉 八雲, Koizumi Yakumo, 1850-1904), one of the earliest Western authors to write about Japan first-hand.  Maybe I could follow in his footsteps...?

Open from 7:00 AM to 7:30 PM, or from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM from October to March.  Costs ¥680, or ¥340 with a foreign passport.  More information: (Japanese)

4) Matsuyama Castle, Okayama Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1240

By User: (WT-shared) ChubbyWimbus at wts wikivoyage (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Many castles in Japan were located on flat plains, but a few took advantage of mountaintop positions for added defence.  Of the original, pre-Meiji castles left in Japan, Matsuyama Castle* (松山城, Matsuyama-jō) in Takahashi (33 km / 20 mi. northwest of Okayama) is the only original hilltop castle, standing 430 metres (1,410 feet) above sea level.  The walk up this hill takes at least 20 minutes from the upper parking lot (which is closed on weekends and holidays from March through December; paid shuttle buses are available from the lower parking lot).  On the bright side, multiple points along this approach offer sweeping views over the town (but not from the castle itself, ironically).

*This castle is sometimes called Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城, Bicchū Matsuyama-jō), named after its former province, so as not to confuse it with the Matsuyama Castle in Matsuyama city, on Shikoku.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, or to 4:30 PM from October to March.  Closed from 29 December to 3 January.  Costs ¥500.  More information: (Japanese)

5) Himeji Castle, Hyogo Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1609

Ask anyone to name a Japanese castle, and their answer may, more often than not, be Himeji Castle (姫路城, Himeji-jō).  It is an imposing figure among castles, owing not only to its grand stature, but the labyrinthine passages and hidden defences which have deterred invaders for centuries.  Indeed, Himeji Castle has been lucky enough to survive multiple brushes with near-destruction in its modern history.  And yet, at the same time it expresses beauty through its brilliant white exterior, which has shone all the more after its recent restoration project.  Of course, being of easy access to the cities of the Kansai region doesn't hurt either.  I have also visited Himeji Castle myself; you may read about it here.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM; closes at 6:00 PM from late April to August.  Closed on 29 and 30 December.  Costs ¥1,000, or ¥1,050 in combination with Koko-en Garden.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

6) Nijo Castle, Kyoto
Original: Yes*, built in 1603

While most people associate Japanese castles with their main keeps, the sprawling, low-rise palace buildings at their base were more important.  They served as the living quarters and reception halls for the resident shoguns during everyday operations, whereas the keeps were used more when the lord had to defend himself.  Nijo Castle (二条城, Nijō-jō), in the centre of Kyoto, used to have a keep, but it was struck by lightning and burned down in 1750, and has never since been rebuilt.  Instead, it now consists of two palace buildings: the outer Ninomaru, one of the few non-reconstructed castle palaces in Japan, and the inner Honmaru, which is very seldom open to the public.  As visitors walk through the Ninomaru palace, they will discover one of its trademark features right under their feet: the "nightingale floors".  These boards have nails underneath them which scrape hidden metal plates and emit a squeaking sound when stepped on, serving as a security measure back in the day.

*Because it no longer possesses a keep tower, Nijo Castle is not counted among the twelve original castles.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM; opens at 8:00 AM from July to September; closes at 6:00 PM from July to August.  Closed from 26 December to 3 January.  Costs ¥620, or ¥1,030 including the Ninomaru palace.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

7) Hikone Castle, Shiga Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1622

By Oilstreet (Oilstreet) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Hikone, a town along the massive Lake Biwa (琵琶湖, Biwa-ko), is the home of another of Japan's twelve original castles.  In fact, when other castles were being demolished during the Meiji period, the Emperor himself visited Hikone Castle (彦根城, Hikone-jō) and ordered it to be spared.  Maybe it was the architectural style, since three different types of gables were incorporated into its main keep.  Whatever the reason, Hikone Castle remains a lesser-known but no less pleasant day-trip from both Kyoto and Nagoya.  Don't forget about the Hikone Castle Museum, which includes some reconstructed palace buildings, and the "Yume Kyobashi Castle Road", a shopping avenue leading from the south, whose buildings have been dressed up like the castle itself.

Open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed from 25 to 31 December.  Costs ¥800, or ¥1,200 with Hikone Castle Museum.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

8) Matsumoto Castle, Nagano Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1593

By Oren Rozen (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Not only does Matsumoto Castle (松本城, Matsumoto-jō) count among the twelve original castles of Japan, it is one of the most complete of those twelve.  Since it was built before the end of the Warring States period, its owners took its defences very seriously, which also helps explain why so much of it survives to this day.  After all this time, its black-clad exterior has also been meticulously maintained, hence its nickname of the "Crow Castle" (烏城, Karasu-jō).  As with other castles, Matsumoto Castle is famous as a cherry blossom spot.  Its 300 sakura trees look especially beautiful combined with the distant backdrop of the Japan Alps.

Open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed from 29 December to 1 January.  Costs ¥610.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

9) Tsuruga Castle, Fukushima Prefecture
Original: No, rebuilt in 1965

By Hiroaki Kaneko [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Tsuruga Castle (鶴ヶ城, Tsuru-ga-jō), officially known as Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle (会津若松城, Aizu-Wakamatsu-jō), was the seat of power of the Aizu domain (会津藩, Aizu-han), which makes up the western portion of modern-day Fukushima Prefecture.  Its common name was bestowed upon it in the late 16th century, when its new owner came in and redesigned the place.  When Tsuruga Castle was rebuilt in 1965, it was given black roof tiles, for a more common appearance among Japanese castles.  But, as part of renovations finished in 2011, its roof tiles were restored to their original reddish colour, giving it a more distinct appearance.  This choice of hue goes especially well with cherry blossoms, which are planted around the castle and bloom in mid-to-late April.

Open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.  Costs ¥410.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

10) Hirosaki Castle, Aomori Prefecture
Original: Yes, rebuilt in 1811

By Angaurits (my own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

Cherry blossoms are a common sight around castles in Japan, and often make for the most popular hanami sites in their respective regions.  For Tohoku, nothing comes close to Hirosaki Castle (弘前城, Hirosaki-jō), located only 33 km (20 mi.) southwest of the city of Aomori.  The northernmost of Japan's original castles (although it had burned down and was rebuilt in 1811, before the Meiji era), Hirosaki Castle hosts over 2,600 trees, which bloom in late April and early May.  Its vast 45-hectare (111-acre) grounds, not counting the adjacent Fujita Memorial Garden, have been described as multiple great cherry blossom sites in one.  Near the end of the sakura season, petals start to fall off the trees and into the moat surrounding the castle.  The pink-coated waters that result from this make for a uniquely iconic sight.

Note: From now through the year 2021, the main keep is going through renovations.  In preparation for the process, the keep has manually (!) been hauled about 70 meters from its original location, shown above.  So, while the keep is still open to the public, you'll have to wait a few years in order to once again take pictures like this.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed from 24 November to late March/early April.  Costs ¥320, or ¥520 in combination with the Fujita Botanical Garden.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

Before the wildcard, I thought I'd throw in a few honourable mentions.

• Kumamoto Castle, Kumamoto Prefecture.  Under normal circumstances, this reconstructed but complete castle would be a shoo-in for this list.  Unfortunately, after an earthquake struck Kumamoto in April 2016, parts of the castle were seriously damaged, and so it remains closed while repairs are being performed.  The city does not expect these repairs to be complete for another twenty years, but they hope to open the main keep as early as Spring 2021.
• Edit: As of 5 October 2019, a brief walking path around Kumamoto Castle's keeps has been opened to visitors.  It is open only on Sundays and holidays, so as not to interfere with reconstruction work, and costs ¥500.
• Osaka Castle, Osaka Prefecture.  Formerly Japan's largest castle, and currently Osaka's most popular cherry blossom site.
• Nagoya Castle, Aichi Prefecture.  Its green-roofed keep is about to be closed for reconstruction, but its recently-rebuilt palace makes up for it.
• Matsumae Castle, Hokkaido.  Located on the island's southern tip, this is the only traditionally-Japanese castle on Hokkaido.
• Goryokaku, Hokkaido.  A Western-style, star-shaped fortress in the middle of Hakodate, and one of Hokkaido's most famous cherry-blossom sites.

Wildcard) Takeda Castle Ruins, Hyogo Prefecture
Original: No

By Norio NAKAYAMA (Flickr: takeda castle) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

For my wildcard slot, I return to the Kansai region.  About 55 km (35 mi.) north of Himeji (the number-5 spot on this list), stands the ruins of Takeda Castle (竹田城, Takeda-jō).  There are no longer any buildings present on the site; they were abandoned in the 17th century and have disintegrated over time, but the foundations have been preserved for tourists.  But castle aficionados love this place for an occasional phenomenon which occurs here.  Under favourable conditions, namely autumn sunrises, clouds gather below the mountain's peak to give the impression that the castle ruins are floating atop a sea of clouds.  Of course, getting here early enough can be a tricky proposition, especially if you are not travelling with your own car, but there are plenty of fair views to be had for everyone else.  Either way, not for nothing do people call this Japan's answer to the Machu Picchu ruins of Peru.  I would visit myself, but sadly I don't have the background set ready.

Open from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM (March-May), 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM (June-August), 4:00 AM to 5:00 PM (September-November), or 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM (December-3 January).  Closed from 4 January to the end of February.  Costs ¥500.  More information: (Japanese)