This article is based on a visit made on Tuesday, 22 November 2016.
Previously on Sekai Ichi, I set foot on the island of
Miyajima. Upon making landfall, my first destination was not the more famous Itsukushima Shrine -- that would come next -- but rather, an auxiliary shrine along the way. It is officially named either Hokoku or Toyokuni Shrine*, but is better known by the name of its main hall: Senjokaku (千畳閣,
Senjō-kaku, lit. 'one thousand-tatami pavilion').
*NB: I have read conflicting accounts on which is the correct reading of its Japanese name, 豊国神社. The more common name "Senjokaku" refers only to the main hall, but since I have yet to find a straight answer on its official name, I will just use "Senjokaku" for consistency's sake.
This shrine was commissioned by
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉, 1537-1598) in AD 1587; however, this five-storied pagoda outside predates it by over a century, specifically dating back to the year 1407. I can't tell if it had needed to be rebuilt since then, but whether or not this was the case, its paint job is positively brilliant. And I also find interesting the palm trees planted nearby. I wouldn't classify Miyajima as a tropical island, especially not in November. But nonetheless, on a sunny day such as this, it makes for a perfect marriage of blue, red, and green.
The name "Senjokaku" means "hall of one thousand tatami mats", which certainly clues you in on the size of this place. The open floor plan only accentuates this attribute. Visitors should be aware that they will have to take off their shoes before entering the hall. But if it helps maintain the immaculately shiny floor, I shan't complain.
Originally, this was a Buddhist temple which had enshrined the Amida Buddha (the same Buddha depicted by the giant bronze statue in Kamakura). After the Meiji Restoration in the 1860s, it was converted to a Shinto shrine, and its enshrined subject was replaced by the soul of Toyotomi Hideyoshi himself. The Buddha icons consecrated here were then moved to Daigan-ji, a nearby Buddhist temple.
Look up at the rafters of the hall, and you will see many wooden paintings hung about. Many of them depict animals, such as deer and horses, as above. These used to be stored at Itsukushima Shrine, but were transferred here after the Meiji Restoration shook things up, as described above.
Senjokaku's open floor plan and lack of walls are due to the fact that Hideyoshi died before it could be completed, and his successor, Tokugawa Ieyasu, never bothered to have it finished. The upside to the abrupt end of its construction, at least nowadays, is that we have some pretty nice views over the surrounding town. There is a huge building over to the left of this shot, and I wonder what it is? My Google-fu has failed me as to what it is, or was, used as. But it certainly does rival Senjokaku in size!
Looking out in the opposite direction affords a view over Itsukushima Shrine proper. Well, no more wasting time. Let's get down for a closer look at the centrepiece of Miyajima, next time on Sekai Ichi!
Hours: Open from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM. No regular closing days.
Costs: ¥100.
Address: 1-1 Miyajima-chō, Hatsukaichi-shi, Hiroshima-ken 〒730-0014
Access: Senjokaku is less than 10 minutes on foot from Miyajima Pier.
Directions: From Miyajima Pier, turn right and walk along the coastline. When you get to the stone torii gate in front of Itsukishima Shrine (about 7 minutes), turn around, take the path on the right, and turn right immediately after. Walk up through the tunnel, then turn right and right again. You should be facing a staircase; climb it to reach the shrine.
Website:
(Japanese)
