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Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Top Ten Cherry Blossom Spots

Edit 6 April 2018: Replaced images with 640px width versions to improve loading times.  Also replaced the pictures of entries 5, 6, and 10 with entirely new ones.

The cherry blossom, or sakura (桜 / さくら) in Japanese, is a symbol indelibly associated with Japan.  The tradition of watching cherry blossoms is called hanami (花見, lit. 'flower viewing'), and usually involves sharing a picnic under the trees with friends.  Virtually any place you go to in Japan will have some cherry trees set up somewhere or other.  But there are places which rise above the others in creating the ultimate sakura experience, and today, I'm going to show you my top ten picks.

Before we start, when is the best time to view cherry blossoms in your neck of the woods?  It depends on the weather patterns, and thus can change if the season is unusually warm, cold, or rainy.  The trend of when and where full bloom occurs each year is measured as something called the "sakura front".  The "front" starts in the southern sub-tropical islands of Okinawa as early as late January.  Of the four main islands, it gets to Kyushu and Shikoku first, in mid-to-late March.  As March turns into April, the major cities of southern Honshu -- Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto, Tokyo, et al -- get their turn.  Later in April, the front moves north through the Tohoku region, as well as higher-altitude places like the Japan Alps.  Finally, it reaches the northern island of Hokkaido over the course of May.

With all that established, it is time to run down my top ten picks for cherry blossom locations in Japan.  I admit I have not yet personally visited many of these places... yet, so this list is subsequently based on remote research.  I have based the entries of this list on criteria such as the number and varieties of trees in bloom, uniqueness of their surroundings, ease of access, and relative lack of exposure.  And in the interest of fairness, I've ordered this list not by quality, but by geographic location, moving west to east along the country.

1) Osaka Mint Bureau, Osaka
Average peak bloom: Early April
The gardens behind the Japan Mint Museum.
By Mc681 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons
For most of the year, the head office of the Japan Mint in Osaka (大阪, Ōsaka) hosts a museum showcasing a history of Japanese coinage.  But for one week in April, they open up a garden with over a hundred varieties of cherry trees.  It can get awfully crowded, as shown above, but both it and the mint museum tour are free of charge to enter.  Once you're done, don't forget to cross the O River and visit Kema Sakuranomiya Park (毛馬桜之宮公園, Kema Sakuranomiya Kōen), where a 3km (2 mi.) stretch of the river is lined with thousands more cherry trees.

Elsewhere in Osaka, I also recommend:
  • Expo '70 Commemorative Park.  The grounds where the 1970 World Expo was held has been preserved as a public park.  Landmarks such as the Tower of the Sun are surrounded by around five thousand sakura trees.  The park also holds a Japanese landscape garden and a couple of museums.
  • Osaka Castle.  Most of the grounds surrounding the castle are free to visit.  While the Nishinomaru garden does cost extra, it boasts the park's greatest density of cherry trees, making for some of the prettiest views of the castle.
  • Tempozan Park.  On a small, man-made island in Osaka Bay, one will come across Mount Tenpo.  Peaking at only four and a half meters (15 feet) above sea level, it is known as Japan's shortest "mountain".  A small park is situated atop this mountain, and the cherry trees planted herein can be combined with structures like the Great Tempozan Bridge or the Tempozan Giant Ferris Wheel, for images that are both beautiful and modern.
2) Yoshino-yama, Yoshino, Nara Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Early to late April
The view from Yoshimizu Shrine, part of the Naka-senbon (middle thousand-trees) section.
Hiroaki Kaneko [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons
Among the Japanese, the discussion of the most famous sakura spots in the country always seems to include the slopes of Mount Yoshino (吉野山, Yoshino-yama), in the southern Kansai region.  Its trees are grouped according to their placement up the mountain.  Because of the difference in elevation, it has a wide peak period, starting with the lower sections in early April, and ending with the upper sections late in the month.  This provides a sublime atmosphere as you walk through the beautifully rustic towns along the mountain, and visit the numerous temples of the ascetic Shugendo Buddhist sect.

Note: If you plan to arrive by one of Kintetsu's limited express trains, tickets during the sakura season are liable to sell out fast, so book early.  You can book limited-express tickets online through Kintetsu's website, up to two months ahead of time.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

3) Philosopher's Path, Kyoto
Average peak bloom: Early April
Cherry trees along both sides of the canal.
By Reggaeman (Own work) [GFDLCC-BY-SA-3.0 or FAL], via Wikimedia Commons
The Philosopher's Path (哲学の道, Tetsugaku-no-michi), or Philosopher's Walk, runs along a canal in northeastern Kyoto (京都, Kyōto).  It is so-named because of an early 20th-century university professor, Kitaro Nishida (西田 幾多郎, Nishida Kitarō, 1870-1945), who used to walk up and down it every day while meditating on his personal philosophy.  The 2km road is book-ended by the Nanzen-ji (南禅寺) and Ginkaku-ji (銀閣寺) temples, and is dotted with numerous other temples and shrines along the way.  And, of course, it is shaded by a thick canopy of cherry blossoms.

Elsewhere in Kyoto, I also recommend:
  • Maruyama Park.  Directly behind Yasaka Shrine in the Gion district is one of Kyoto's more famous sakura spots.  Front and centre in the park is a giant weeping cherry tree.  This, along with the other cherry trees around the park, are illuminated during the season, staying open as late as 1 AM.
  • Heian Shrine.  This relatively young Shinto shrine was inaugurated in 1895, the 1100th anniversary of the city.  The well-kept shrine is pretty year-round, but its garden boasts a bunch of weeping cherry trees, which bloom later than their peers.  Thus, people who miss the main peak would be well-served to visit here.
  • Nakanoshima Park.  There are cherry trees all around the western Arashiyama district, but the best concentration is found on Nakanoshima, a long island on the far side of the famous Togetsukyo bridge.  And once you've had your fill, the Arashiyama Monkey Park is right nearby.
4) Takato Castle Ruins Park, Ina, Nagano Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Mid to late April
Takato Castle Ruins Park, seen from above.
By 木村邦生 [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons
For sheer density of cherry trees, you can't beat the Takato Castle Ruins Park (高遠城跡, Takatō Jōseki), south of Nagano and Matsumoto.  The castle itself is long-gone, with only a few structures rebuilt during the modern era.  But the grounds it once stood on have made up for that by packing 1,500 trees into an area of 5 hectares (12 acres).  It is relatively farther away from major cities, but it truly earns its place among the traditional three best cherry blossom locations of Japan (the other being Yoshino, previously mentioned here, and Hirosaki Castle, coming up soon).

5) Churei-to Pagoda, Fuji-Yoshida, Yamanashi Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Mid-April
The view behind Churei-to Pagoda, looking at Mt. Fuji.
By https://www.flickr.com/photos/reggiepen/ [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons
The Fuji Five Lakes have an abundance of sakura spots, but none of them can top the view of the Churei-to (忠霊塔, Chūrei-tō) pagoda, part of the Arakura Sengen Shrine (新倉富士浅間神社, Arakura Fuji Sengen Jinja).  A stone's throw from Lake Kawaguchi, visitors can climb up a path through the shrine grounds, and be rewarded with a combination of the vividly-coloured pagoda, a sea of pink tree-tops surrounding it, and in the distance, none other than Mount Fuji.  But, Mt. Fuji's climate being what it is, it may take some luck for the peak to show itself from passing clouds.  Elsewhere in the Fuji Five Lakes, I also recommend the northern shores of Kawaguchi-ko.  There are more cherry trees planted just across from where the Maple Corridor takes place in autumn.

6) Kawazu, Shizuoka Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Late February to late Match
Kawazu-zakura trees along the Kawazu River.
By Yamaguchi Yoshiaki from Japan (Kawadu Cherry / 河津桜) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons
Kawazu (河津), a town on the Izu peninsula, boasts a warmer climate than much of Japan.  Thus, its unique species of cherry trees are among the country's earliest-blooming varieties.  When they start to blossom in February, the town sets up a festival in their honour.  Due to the town's proximity to Tokyo (it takes less than 2 and a half hours by the Odoriko limited-express train), the place subsequently gets swarmed by Tokyoites anxious for an early taste of spring, no doubt bringing a buzzing atmosphere to this otherwise sleepy town.

7) Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, Tokyo
Average peak bloom: Late March to late April
Cherry trees in Shinjuku-Gyoen, with the NTT Docomo Building to the left.
By Kakidai (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons
Tokyo (東京, Tōkyō) certainly has no shortage of sakura spots, some of which I have been to myself.  But, if I had to pick just one, I would highlight the Shinjuku Gyoen (新宿御苑) park.  Why?  Many varieties of cherry trees have been planted here, some of which bloom earlier, in late March, and some of which bloom later, in mid-to-late April.  Thus, even if you miss the one week or so of peak bloom elsewhere in the city, you will be suitably served by the sakura on service in Shinjuku.  ...I love alliteration.

Note: Although Shinjuku Gyoen does allow you to bring in light food and drink for hanami parties, alcoholic beverages are prohibited.

Elsewhere in Tokyo, I also recommend:
  • Ueno Park.  The most famous, and subsequently most crowded hanami location in Tokyo, Ueno Park earns its reputation from the hundreds of trees forming a dense pinkish canopy along its central path.  I have also visited Ueno Park myself; you may read my report here.
  • Chidorigafuchi, the northern moats of the Imperial Palace.  Visitors may rent boats to pedal along the canal in, to get a close-up look at the trees.
  • Meguro River.  This river in southern Tokyo cuts through the urban landscape, but while it's not much of a natural setting, the trees are densely-packed on either side of the canal, and they're also lit up at night.  A similar illumination takes place here for the winter (early November to early January), where the bare trees are dotted with pink LEDs to resemble sakura flowers.
8) Kakunodate, Akita Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Late April to early May
Buke-yashiki Street in Kakunodate's samurai district.
By tsushima [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons
Kakunodate (角館) is a former castle town in the northern Tohoku region, once inhabited by many samurai families.  Their houses were built along one main road, known as Buke-Yashiki (武家屋敷, lit. 'samurai residence') Street.  While they are pretty enough to look at and even visit throughout the year, the weeping cherry trees (枝垂れ桜, shidare-zakura) planted along this road turns the town's appeal up to eleven.  A second, parallel path of sakura trees can also be found along the Hinokinai River, along the west side of town.  And if that isn't enough, visit the Kakunodate Castle Ruins, on a hill to the north.  The castle itself has long since been destroyed and was never reconstructed, but the view of the town and river makes up for that fact.

9) Hirosaki Castle, Hirosaki, Aomori Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Late April to early May
The main keep of Hirosaki Castle, before it was moved for renovations.
By Angaurits (my own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons
Castles are commonly adorned with cherry trees around their grounds, and one of the best places to experience this combination is Hirosaki Castle.  Hirosaki (弘前) is one of the few "original" castle keeps of Japan, meaning they have stood without reconstruction since before the modern Meiji era.  Its vast 45-hectare (111-acre) grounds, not counting the adjacent Fujita Memorial Garden, have been described as multiple great cherry blossom sites in one.  Near the end of the sakura season, petals start to fall off the trees and into the moat surrounding the castle.  The pink-coated waters that result from this make for a uniquely iconic sight.

Note: From now through the year 2021, the main keep is going through renovations.  In preparation for the process, the keep has manually (!) been hauled about 70 meters from its original location, shown above.  So, while the keep is still open to the public, you'll have to wait a few years in order to once again take pictures like this.

10) Fort Goryokaku, Hakodate, Hokkaido
Average peak bloom: Early to mid-May
The star-shaped Fort Goryokaku, as seen from Goryokaku Tower.
By 五稜郭 [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons
Located in the middle of Hakodate (函館), a port city in southern Hokkaido, Goryokaku (五稜郭) is a Western-style fort built in the mid-19th century.  Originally built to command defences against the Imperial Russian navy, its military importance waned over time, and it was converted into a public park in 1910.  With it came an abundance of cherry trees.  Goryokaku is one of many sakura sites on Hokkaido that bloom in May, the tail end of the season, due to the island's cooler climate.  To witness the full scale of the fort's arsenal of cherry tress, take a ride up the nearby Goryokaku Tower and gaze down from its observatory, 90 metres (295 feet) above ground.

Wildcard) Fuji Shibazakura Festival, Lake Motosu, Yamanashi Prefecture
Average peak bloom: Mid-April to mid-May
By 白鳥 (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Finally, it's time to bring you my "wildcard" slot, set aside for an entry that doesn't quite qualify for the list itself, but nonetheless deserves a mention.  And for this list, I present to you sakura flowers that lie not on trees, but not on the ground.  Shibazakura (芝桜 / シバザクラ), the titular flowers of the Fuji Shibazakura Festival, are not technically cherry-related, but a ground-based flower known as pink phlox moss in English.  Whatever they're called, they are cultivated to form an intricate pink landscape.  There are a few of these seasonal displays across the country, but are there any others which include Mount Fuji as a backdrop?  I thought not.  I have made it there myself in 2018; you may read my report here.