Top Ten Japanese Castles

Edit 8 October 2019: Updated prices to reflect the increase in Japan's national sales tax.

Earlier in its history, Japan was not one whole country, but a collection of small feudal domains which, coincidentally enough, feuded with each other quite a bit.  During the Warring States period of the mid-to-late 16th century AD, the leaders of these clans built castles to protect themselves.  Even more were built afterwards, when the country was unified and the internally-peaceful Edo Period began.  Today, long after the descendants of those regional leaders needed such physical protection, their castles live on, primary as museums about the history of the castles themselves and the region they represented.

An important distinction to make about Japanese castles is whether or not they are considered "original" castles.  During the Meiji period (1868-1912), when the Emperor regained power and moved the capital to Tokyo, castles were seen as outdated relics of the "primitive" feudal age, and so many were destroyed.  However, most of the destroyed castles were later rebuilt, either with concrete or, especially in recent years, with wood in a more traditional fashion.  Only twelve castles are counted as "original castles", in that they have stood undisturbed since the end of the Edo period.  As part of this list, I will indicate whether or not the castle is part of the original twelve, although just because a castle is not original does not mean it isn't worth your time; far from it.  Also, in the interest of fairness, this list is not ordered by quality, but by geographic location, moving west to east along the country.

1) Shuri Castle, Okinawa
Original: No, rebuilt in 1992

By 663highland (Own work) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Note: Shuri Castle, pictured above, was destroyed again by fire in October 2019.  Current plans are to rebuild the damaged parts by 2026, but the castle park is still open in the meantime.

The islands of Okinawa used to be their own country, the Ryukyu Kingdom, until it was merged into Japanese territory in 1879.  Most Okinawan castles, known in the local language as "gusuku", exist only by their distinctive thick-walled ramparts, but Shuri Castle (首里城, Shuri-jō, Okinawan: Sui Gusuku), near downtown Naha, takes it a step further.  The buildings of the castle were shelled and mostly destroyed near the end of World War II, but have been rebuilt to their original splendour in recent years.  The bright colours and architectural style of the castle's buildings show more of a Chinese influence than may be found elsewhere in Japan, due to Okinawa's closer location to the Asian continent.

Open from 8:30 AM to 7:00 PM; closes at 8:00 PM from July to September, or at 6:00 PM from December to March.  Closed on the first Wednesday and Thursday of July.  Costs ¥830.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

2) Shimabara Castle, Nagasaki Prefecture
Original: No, rebuilt in 1964

663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], from Wikimedia Commons

Moving on to the four main islands of Japan, Shimabara Castle (島原城, Shimabara-jō) stands on the peninsula of the same name, in Kyushu.  Its (reconstructed) keep was larger than those of other castles in the area, and was considered extravagant for its day.  In fact, the heavy taxes collected to pay for its construction, as well as the persecution of Christians at the same time, helped trigger the Shimabara Rebellion of 1637-8.  Unfortunately, this did nothing to improve the lives of Christians at the time.  But with that behind us, the multi-tiered keep of the modern Shimabara castle is painted a brilliant white, providing a contrast with Kumamoto Castle, just across the bay, which you can even see from the 5th-floor viewing deck.  Among the castle's other structures, one of its turrets houses a museum of Seibo Kitamura (北村 西望, Kitamura Seibō, 1884-1987), a sculptor who designed the statue of the Nagasaki Peace Park.

Open from 7:00 AM to 5:30 PM.  Closed on 29 and 30 December.  Costs ¥550.  More information: (Japanese)

3) Matsue Castle, Shimane Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1611 (main keep only)

By 663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Matsue Castle (松江城, Matsue-jō) is the first "original" castle on this list, meaning that its main keep has survived demolition since the start of the Meiji period, when quite a few castles were destroyed, having been seen as outdated relics of the previous feudal era.  While only its black-clad keep and a few walls remain today, its other buildings having been dismantled during the Meiji era, the keep is nonetheless a mighty one.  There is a former samurai district just across the moat from Matsue Castle, including a former home of Lafcadio Hearn, a.k.a. Yakumo Koizumi (小泉 八雲, Koizumi Yakumo, 1850-1904), one of the earliest Western authors to write about Japan first-hand.  Maybe I could follow in his footsteps...?

Open from 7:00 AM to 7:30 PM, or from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM from October to March.  Costs ¥680, or ¥340 with a foreign passport.  More information: (Japanese)

4) Matsuyama Castle, Okayama Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1240

By User: (WT-shared) ChubbyWimbus at wts wikivoyage (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Many castles in Japan were located on flat plains, but a few took advantage of mountaintop positions for added defence.  Of the original, pre-Meiji castles left in Japan, Matsuyama Castle* (松山城, Matsuyama-jō) in Takahashi (33 km / 20 mi. northwest of Okayama) is the only original hilltop castle, standing 430 metres (1,410 feet) above sea level.  The walk up this hill takes at least 20 minutes from the upper parking lot (which is closed on weekends and holidays from March through December; paid shuttle buses are available from the lower parking lot).  On the bright side, multiple points along this approach offer sweeping views over the town (but not from the castle itself, ironically).

*This castle is sometimes called Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城, Bicchū Matsuyama-jō), named after its former province, so as not to confuse it with the Matsuyama Castle in Matsuyama city, on Shikoku.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, or to 4:30 PM from October to March.  Closed from 29 December to 3 January.  Costs ¥500.  More information: (Japanese)

5) Himeji Castle, Hyogo Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1609

Ask anyone to name a Japanese castle, and their answer may, more often than not, be Himeji Castle (姫路城, Himeji-jō).  It is an imposing figure among castles, owing not only to its grand stature, but the labyrinthine passages and hidden defences which have deterred invaders for centuries.  Indeed, Himeji Castle has been lucky enough to survive multiple brushes with near-destruction in its modern history.  And yet, at the same time it expresses beauty through its brilliant white exterior, which has shone all the more after its recent restoration project.  Of course, being of easy access to the cities of the Kansai region doesn't hurt either.  I have also visited Himeji Castle myself; you may read about it here.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM; closes at 6:00 PM from late April to August.  Closed on 29 and 30 December.  Costs ¥1,000, or ¥1,050 in combination with Koko-en Garden.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

6) Nijo Castle, Kyoto
Original: Yes*, built in 1603

While most people associate Japanese castles with their main keeps, the sprawling, low-rise palace buildings at their base were more important.  They served as the living quarters and reception halls for the resident shoguns during everyday operations, whereas the keeps were used more when the lord had to defend himself.  Nijo Castle (二条城, Nijō-jō), in the centre of Kyoto, used to have a keep, but it was struck by lightning and burned down in 1750, and has never since been rebuilt.  Instead, it now consists of two palace buildings: the outer Ninomaru, one of the few non-reconstructed castle palaces in Japan, and the inner Honmaru, which is very seldom open to the public.  As visitors walk through the Ninomaru palace, they will discover one of its trademark features right under their feet: the "nightingale floors".  These boards have nails underneath them which scrape hidden metal plates and emit a squeaking sound when stepped on, serving as a security measure back in the day.

*Because it no longer possesses a keep tower, Nijo Castle is not counted among the twelve original castles.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM; opens at 8:00 AM from July to September; closes at 6:00 PM from July to August.  Closed from 26 December to 3 January.  Costs ¥620, or ¥1,030 including the Ninomaru palace.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

7) Hikone Castle, Shiga Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1622

By Oilstreet (Oilstreet) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Hikone, a town along the massive Lake Biwa (琵琶湖, Biwa-ko), is the home of another of Japan's twelve original castles.  In fact, when other castles were being demolished during the Meiji period, the Emperor himself visited Hikone Castle (彦根城, Hikone-jō) and ordered it to be spared.  Maybe it was the architectural style, since three different types of gables were incorporated into its main keep.  Whatever the reason, Hikone Castle remains a lesser-known but no less pleasant day-trip from both Kyoto and Nagoya.  Don't forget about the Hikone Castle Museum, which includes some reconstructed palace buildings, and the "Yume Kyobashi Castle Road", a shopping avenue leading from the south, whose buildings have been dressed up like the castle itself.

Open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed from 25 to 31 December.  Costs ¥800, or ¥1,200 with Hikone Castle Museum.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

8) Matsumoto Castle, Nagano Prefecture
Original: Yes, built in 1593

By Oren Rozen (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Not only does Matsumoto Castle (松本城, Matsumoto-jō) count among the twelve original castles of Japan, it is one of the most complete of those twelve.  Since it was built before the end of the Warring States period, its owners took its defences very seriously, which also helps explain why so much of it survives to this day.  After all this time, its black-clad exterior has also been meticulously maintained, hence its nickname of the "Crow Castle" (烏城, Karasu-jō).  As with other castles, Matsumoto Castle is famous as a cherry blossom spot.  Its 300 sakura trees look especially beautiful combined with the distant backdrop of the Japan Alps.

Open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed from 29 December to 1 January.  Costs ¥610.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

9) Tsuruga Castle, Fukushima Prefecture
Original: No, rebuilt in 1965

By Hiroaki Kaneko [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Tsuruga Castle (鶴ヶ城, Tsuru-ga-jō), officially known as Aizu-Wakamatsu Castle (会津若松城, Aizu-Wakamatsu-jō), was the seat of power of the Aizu domain (会津藩, Aizu-han), which makes up the western portion of modern-day Fukushima Prefecture.  Its common name was bestowed upon it in the late 16th century, when its new owner came in and redesigned the place.  When Tsuruga Castle was rebuilt in 1965, it was given black roof tiles, for a more common appearance among Japanese castles.  But, as part of renovations finished in 2011, its roof tiles were restored to their original reddish colour, giving it a more distinct appearance.  This choice of hue goes especially well with cherry blossoms, which are planted around the castle and bloom in mid-to-late April.

Open from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.  Costs ¥410.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

10) Hirosaki Castle, Aomori Prefecture
Original: Yes, rebuilt in 1811

By Angaurits (my own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

Cherry blossoms are a common sight around castles in Japan, and often make for the most popular hanami sites in their respective regions.  For Tohoku, nothing comes close to Hirosaki Castle (弘前城, Hirosaki-jō), located only 33 km (20 mi.) southwest of the city of Aomori.  The northernmost of Japan's original castles (although it had burned down and was rebuilt in 1811, before the Meiji era), Hirosaki Castle hosts over 2,600 trees, which bloom in late April and early May.  Its vast 45-hectare (111-acre) grounds, not counting the adjacent Fujita Memorial Garden, have been described as multiple great cherry blossom sites in one.  Near the end of the sakura season, petals start to fall off the trees and into the moat surrounding the castle.  The pink-coated waters that result from this make for a uniquely iconic sight.

Note: From now through the year 2021, the main keep is going through renovations.  In preparation for the process, the keep has manually (!) been hauled about 70 meters from its original location, shown above.  So, while the keep is still open to the public, you'll have to wait a few years in order to once again take pictures like this.

Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed from 24 November to late March/early April.  Costs ¥320, or ¥520 in combination with the Fujita Botanical Garden.  More information: (English) (Japanese)

Before the wildcard, I thought I'd throw in a few honourable mentions.

• Kumamoto Castle, Kumamoto Prefecture.  Under normal circumstances, this reconstructed but complete castle would be a shoo-in for this list.  Unfortunately, after an earthquake struck Kumamoto in April 2016, parts of the castle were seriously damaged, and so it remains closed while repairs are being performed.  The city does not expect these repairs to be complete for another twenty years, but they hope to open the main keep as early as Spring 2021.
• Edit: As of 5 October 2019, a brief walking path around Kumamoto Castle's keeps has been opened to visitors.  It is open only on Sundays and holidays, so as not to interfere with reconstruction work, and costs ¥500.
• Osaka Castle, Osaka Prefecture.  Formerly Japan's largest castle, and currently Osaka's most popular cherry blossom site.
• Nagoya Castle, Aichi Prefecture.  Its green-roofed keep is about to be closed for reconstruction, but its recently-rebuilt palace makes up for it.
• Matsumae Castle, Hokkaido.  Located on the island's southern tip, this is the only traditionally-Japanese castle on Hokkaido.
• Goryokaku, Hokkaido.  A Western-style, star-shaped fortress in the middle of Hakodate, and one of Hokkaido's most famous cherry-blossom sites.

Wildcard) Takeda Castle Ruins, Hyogo Prefecture
Original: No

By Norio NAKAYAMA (Flickr: takeda castle) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

For my wildcard slot, I return to the Kansai region.  About 55 km (35 mi.) north of Himeji (the number-5 spot on this list), stands the ruins of Takeda Castle (竹田城, Takeda-jō).  There are no longer any buildings present on the site; they were abandoned in the 17th century and have disintegrated over time, but the foundations have been preserved for tourists.  But castle aficionados love this place for an occasional phenomenon which occurs here.  Under favourable conditions, namely autumn sunrises, clouds gather below the mountain's peak to give the impression that the castle ruins are floating atop a sea of clouds.  Of course, getting here early enough can be a tricky proposition, especially if you are not travelling with your own car, but there are plenty of fair views to be had for everyone else.  Either way, not for nothing do people call this Japan's answer to the Machu Picchu ruins of Peru.  I would visit myself, but sadly I don't have the background set ready.

Open from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM (March-May), 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM (June-August), 4:00 AM to 5:00 PM (September-November), or 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM (December-3 January).  Closed from 4 January to the end of February.  Costs ¥500.  More information: (Japanese)

Top Ten Onsen Resort Towns

Edit 8 October 2019: Updated prices to reflect the increase in Japan's national sales tax.

Previously on Sekai Ichi, I described how to take a bath at an onsen, a common pastime for the Japanese.  The only question for those whom I may have interested is, where to do it?  Really, wherever there's water and a way to heat it, just about any place can serve as a good bath.  But some places go the extra mile, in terms of the feel of their waters, the variety of baths on offer, and the overall ambiance of the place.  That is how I'll be measuring my picks for the top ten onsen resort towns in Japan.

In towns like these, some spas are stand-alone public baths, while others are part of hotels or ryokan.  The latter do open their doors to non-staying visitors for a fee, while those who are already staying the night may use them free of charge.  Note that, for most places, towels will cost extra, unless you bring your own.  In the interest of fairness, and because I have not yet experienced many of these places in person, this list is ordered not by quality, but by geographic location, going from west to east.

1) Ibusuki, Kagoshima Prefecture

Sand bathers in Ibusuki, and the attendants who help them.
By Trinida (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

On the southern tip of mainland Japan, the Ibusuki (指宿) peninsula is home to a unique form of bathing: the sand bath.  In this experience, bathers dressed in yukata robes are buried up to their necks in geothermally-warmed sand for ten to twenty minutes at a time.  This is followed up by a more traditional hot-water bath.  Recommended baths:

• Saraku Sand Bath Hall.  World-famous for sand baths, held right on the beach.  Open from 8:30 AM to 9:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,080 for a sand bath, or ¥610 for a hot-spring bath only.  Website: (English)
• Healthy Land.  Includes large open-air baths along the coast, in addition to sand baths.  Open from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, or to 6:00 PM in July and August.  Costs ¥1,240 for a sand bath, or ¥830 for a hot-spring bath only.  Website: (English)

2) Beppu / Yufuin / Kurokawa Onsen, Oita Prefecture

The "Umi-jigoku" spring in Beppu.
By Totti (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

One of the most famous onsen destinations in all of Japan, Beppu (別府) is a collection of eight hot spring areas merged into one city.  There are no shortage of public and hotel baths to be found, and sand baths (described above) are also available at some locations.  Beyond that, Beppu's claim to fame is its so-called hells, open ponds of steaming hot spring water.  They are much too hot for bathing, but with their unearthly appearances, including hues of turquoise-blue, milky white, and even red-orange, visitors flock in just to see them up close.  Overall, it's a bit on the touristy side, so if that's not to your liking, you can hop on a bus to more refined onsen towns like Yufuin or Kurokawa Onsen.  Recommended baths:

• Takegawara.  A historic public bathhouse offering sand baths.  Open from 6:30 AM to 10:30 PM, closed on the 3rd Wednesday of December; sand bath open 8:00 AM to 10:30 PM, closed on the 3rd Wednesday of every month.  Costs ¥110, or ¥1,050 for a sand bath. Website: (English)
• Tanayu / Suginoi Hotel.  Includes rooftop open-air baths with wide views over the city, and a separate pool area, free with admission (swimsuits required).  Open to non-staying guests from 9:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,200 on weekdays, or ¥1,800 on weekends and holidays.  Website: (English)
• Onsen Hoyo Land.  Includes mud and steam baths, and a large, open-air mixed section.  Open 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,100.  Website: (Japanese)
• Shoya no Yakaya (Yufuin).  Uses vivid blue water, and offers beautiful views of the town below.  Open to non-staying visitors from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM.  Costs ¥800.  Website: (Japanese)
• Yamamizuki (Kurokawa Onsen).  A secluded, serene inn with riverside outdoor baths.  Open to non-staying guests from 8:30 AM to 9:00 PM.  Costs ¥500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

3) Dogo Onsen, Ehime Prefecture

The Dogo Onsen Honkan.
By Japanexperterna.se (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Situated less than three kilometres (2 miles) east of downtown Matsuyama, Dogo Onsen (道後温泉, Dōgo Onsen) is one of Japan's oldest hot springs, having been mentioned in legends dating back to the 6th century AD.  In more recent history, the town is famous for its eponymous public bathhouse, the Dogo Onsen Honkan.  Its architecture is a rabbit's warren of rooms and halls, including one bath room reserved for the Imperial Family.  In fact, this place was a key inspiration for the anime film Spirited Away, which takes place in a bathhouse/inn frequented by fantastical spiritual creatures.  Recommended baths:

• Dogo Onsen Honkan. Described above.  Offers multiple pricing packages, with upper tiers including green tea and use of private relaxation rooms.  Open from 6:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥420.  Website: (Japanese)
• Tsubaki-no-Yu.  A simple public bath using the same water source as the Honkan.  Open from 6:30 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥400.  Website: (Japanese)
• Asuka-no-Yu.  Newly opened in 2017, it resembles a modern take on the Honkan, and offers indoor baths and private relaxation rooms.  Open from 7:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥610 to ¥1,690.  Website: (Japanese)

4) Arima Onsen, Hyogo Prefecture

The Arima River banks near the front of town.
Taken on Saturday, 19 November 2016.

Like the previous entry, Arima Onsen (有馬温泉) is also steeped in history, despite being situated only a half-hour from modern Kobe.  It is famous for the two springs used throughout the town: the coppery "gold" water, and the clear "silver" water.  For my report on Arima Onsen, please read this article.  Recommended baths:

• Kin-no-Yu.  A public bathhouse using the "gold" water.  Open from 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM.  Closed on the 2nd and 4th Tuesdays of each month, and on 1 January.  Costs ¥650, or ¥850 for a combo ticket with Gin-no-Yu.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Gin-no-Yu.  A public bathhouse using the "silver" water.  Open from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM.  Closed on the 1st and 3rd Tuesdays of each month, and on 1 January.  Costs ¥550, or ¥850 for a combo ticket with Kin-no-Yu.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Taiko-no-Yu / Arima View Hotel.  A modern spa complex including both "gold" and "silver" water baths.  Open 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥2,640 on weekdays, or ¥2,860 on weekends and holidays.  Website: (Japanese)

5) Okuhida, Gifu Prefecture

The baths of Suimeikan Karukaya, in Shin-Hotaka Onsen.
By Soul of Japan [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

The Okuhida (奥飛騨) region is a collection of onsen towns nestled in the Japan Alps, between Takayama and Matsumoto.  Each of them, including (going uphill) Hirayu Onsen (平湯温泉), Shin-Hirayu Onsen (新平湯温泉), and Shin-Hotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉), use their own water sources.  Many of the outdoor baths in the area are set in beautiful forest landscapes.  While you're in the area, consider taking a ride up the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway, where you can just admire the view, or continue on to a number of challenging hiking trails.  Recommended baths:

• Hirayu-no-Mori (Hirayu Onsen).  Features a vast collection of outdoor baths nestled in the forest.  Open from 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Okuhida Garden Hotel Yakedake (Shin-Hirayu Onsen).  Features outdoor, mixed-gender baths with sulfur-tinted water.  Open to non-staying guests from Noon to 10:00 PM.  Costs ¥700.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Yarimikan (Shin-Hotaka Onsen).  A ryokan hotel featuring mixed-gender, open-air baths overlooking a river.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM.  Costs ¥500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

6) Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture

Lake Ashi, with the torii gate of Hakone Shrine, and Mount Fuji in the back.
By Kentagon [CC BY-SA 4.0], from Wikimedia Commons

Hakone (箱根) is one of the closest onsen towns to Tokyo.  As such, it features on many tourists' itineraries, but it warrants even multiple visits because it offers so much for guests to do.  During the day, there are many art museums, sightseeing cruises across Lake Ashi, and the volcanic valley Owakudani.  And then there are the dozen hot springs, feeding dozens upon dozens of baths.  Of course, it's not surprising that there is so much geothermal activity, since Mount Fuji is within 30km (20 mi.) away, and in good weather, can be seen from a number of spots around Hakone.  Despite the urbanised appearance of some establishments, especially around Hakone-Yumoto station, Hakone has a long and storied history as an onsen destination, and many of its outdoor baths nonetheless look out over tranquil forest landscapes.  Recommended baths:

• Hakone Yuryo.  A newer public onsen with baths overlooking a forested valley.  Open from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM (to 10PM on weekends).  Costs ¥1,500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Hotel Kowaki-en Yunessun.  A water park with uniquely-themed baths and pools (swimsuits required).  Open from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM.  Costs ¥2,500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Mori-no-Yu.  An annex of Yunessun, offering a more traditional onsen experience (no swimsuits).  Open from 11:00 AM to 8:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,500, or ¥3,500 in combination with Yunessun.
• Hakone Green Plaza Hotel.  One of the (surprisingly) few outdoor baths in Hakone with views of Mt. Fuji.  Open to non-staying guests from 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM (opens at 3:00 PM on Wednesdays and Thursdays, closes at 3:00 PM on weekends).  Costs ¥1,600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

7) Kusatsu Onsen / Manza Onsen, Gunma Prefecture

The yubatake (water field) in Kusatsu Onsen.
By くろふね [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Another pair of onsen towns near Tokyo, Kusatsu (草津) and Manza Onsen (万座温泉) stand on opposite sides of Mount Shirane (草津白根山, Kusatsu Shirane-san), an active volcano with hiking or skiing opportunities in the appropriate seasons.  Kusatsu Onsen is famous for its yubatake (湯畑), the "field" where hot water, direct from the spring, gets air-cooled.  Another method of water cooling called "yumomi" (湯もみ), which involves stirring the water with large paddles, has been turned into a regular public show.  Manza Onsen, meanwhile, is one of the best places to take a bath in snowy weather, due to its high elevation (1,800 meters / 5,900 feet), while its sulfuric waters have numerous health benefits.  Recommended baths:

• Sainokawara Rotemburo (Kusatsu Onsen).  Massive open-air baths in the middle of a forest near town.  Open from 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM; opens at 9:00 AM from December through March.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Otaki-no-Yu (Kusatsu Onsen).  A public bathhouse in town, including side-by-side tubs of different temperatures.  Open from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM.  Costs ¥900.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Nisshinkan / Manza Hotel (Manza Onsen).  The outdoor baths have wonderful views over the valley.  Open for non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,000.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

8) Ginzan Onsen, Yamagata Prefecture

The Notoya ryokan at night.
By Eiji Kikuta (AG2016) from Sendai, Japan [CC0 or CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉) gets its name from the silver mine it used to be famous for (Ginzan, or 銀山, means "silver mountain").  Once those fortunes dried up, the town rebuilt itself as an onsen destination.  Many of its buildings, straddling both sides of a river, are constructed in turn-of-the-century-style architecture.  Combined with the gaslights placed around town, this evokes a very romantic atmosphere, especially at night, in the snow, or in the snow at night.  Recommended baths:

• Shirogane-yu.  A public bathhouse designed by architect Kuma Kengo. Open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Costs ¥500.  Website: (English)
• Ginzan-so.  A hotel near the front of town, with open-air baths overlooking a river.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 1:30 PM.  Costs ¥1,000.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Takimi-kan.  A ryokan nestled in the woods a short walk from town, with gorgeous outdoor baths.  Open to non-staying guests from 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (Japanese)

9) Nyuto Onsen, Akita Prefecture

The outdoor mixed bath of Tsurunoyu Onsen, in wintertime.
By Fumiaki Yoshimatsu from Tokyo, Japan (Akita) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Nyuto Onsen (乳頭温泉) is the largest and most accessible of several hot-spring areas in the geothermically-active Hachimantai region.  All the baths in town belong to different ryokan, some of them charmingly rustic, and are open to staying and non-staying guests alike.  Due to its northern latitude, Nyuto Onsen is another wonderful place to bathe in snowy weather, which can last as late as April.  Going even deeper into the mountains brings you to additional springs such as Tamagawa Onsen (玉川温泉), home of the most acidic (and therapeutic) spring water in Japan.  Recommended baths:

• Tsurunoyu Onsen. The oldest onsen in the area, famous for its large outdoor mixed bath.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM; closed on Mondays.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Taenoyu Onsen. Includes outdoor mixed baths overlooking a nearby river.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM; closed on Tuesdays.  Costs ¥800.  Website: (Japanese)
• Kuroyu Onsen. Includes outdoor mixed baths with nice sunset views of the surrounding woods.  Open to non-staying guests from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM.  Closed from early November to mid-April.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (Japanese)

10) Noboribetesu, Hokkaido

The jigokudani of Noboribetsu.
By 663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

The largest and most famous onsen resort on Hokkaido, Noboribetsu (登別) is a veritable hotspot, literally and otherwise, of geothermal activity.  Eleven different water sources supply the town, with the different baths offering their own combinations of such.  These waters come from the jigokudani (地獄谷, lit. 'hell valley'), a barren landscape of steam vents.  Hiking trails from town lead here and to other places of volcanic beauty, including a heated river which serves as a natural footbath.  Elsewhere, don't forget to visit Porotokotan, an open-air museum about the indigenous Ainu people, only a couple of train stops away.  Recommended baths:

• Daiichi Takimoto-kan.  Makes the quite-plausible claim of being the largest spa in Asia.  Its many baths use seven water sources, each with different mineral and healing properties.  Open to non-staying guests from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM.  Costs ¥2,000, or ¥1,500 after 4:00 PM.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
  
• Noboribetsu Grand Hotel. Includes indoor Romanesque baths, and outdoor baths overlooking a small waterfall.  Open to non-staying guests from 12:30 PM to 8:00 PM; opens at 2:30 PM on Mondays and Thursdays.  Costs ¥1,500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Sagiriyu.  The only public bathhouse in town.  Open from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, or to 9:00 PM from November to March.  Costs ¥420.  Website: (Japanese)

Before the wildcard, here are some honourable mentions.

• Kinosaki Onsen, Hyogo Prefecture.  A nostalgia-inducing onsen town near the Sea of Japan coast, with buildings straddling both sides of a willow-lined canal.
• Gero Onsen, Gifu Prefecture.  An urbanised, but no less popular onsen town, and an easy day trip or stayover from Nagoya.
• Shibu Onsen, Nagano Prefecture.  This town is right next door to Yamanouchi, home of the bathing snow monkeys.  In fact, you may even see a few monkeys wandering down into town, although they generally have the good sense to stay out of the humans' baths.
• Minakami, Gunma Prefecture.  A loose collection of baths around the woods of Mount Tanigawa.  The region's highlight is the spacious mixed-bath of Takaragawa Onsen, the closest of its kind to Tokyo.  Speaking of...
• Oedo Onsen, Tokyo.  A modern public bath on one of the Odaiba islands, done up in Edo-period decor.  Its natural spring water is piped in from over 1.4 kilometres (4,600 feet) beneath the Earth's surface.

Wildcard) Spa World, Osaka

By DVMG [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

For this list I have stuck with naturally-occurring hot spring locations, but for my wildcard slot, I have to break that trend and share one of my personal favourite onsen experiences.  Spa World, in the Shinsekai district of Osaka, has many different themed baths split between the European and Asian zones.  The catch is that these zones are segregated between men and women, and are switched between the two in alternating months, so it is worth visiting twice to get the full experience.  This place also includes a mixed pool and water park (swimsuits required), massage services, and a gym.  I have also visited Spa World myself; you may read about it here.  Open from 10:00 AM to 8:45 AM the following morning.  Costs ¥1,200 on weekdays, or ¥1,500 on weekends.

Onsen Baths and How to Take Them

The Japanese archipelago lies on top of fault lines, so it is subject to all kinds of volcanic activity.  The people of this country have managed to harness that geothermal activity, and use it to heat up water for hot-spring baths, known as onsen (温泉, lit. 'warm water').  Onsen are differentiated by the kinds of minerals their waters are infused with, and what health benefits they are meant to possess.  Soaking and indulging in this kind of bath is an integral part of Japanese life and culture, and one I myself have been hooked on whenever I go there.

Really, wherever there's water and a way to heat it, just about any place can serve as a good bath.  Even a private bath room in a regular home can be used in such a style.  Full-scale onsen are often encountered at ryokan inns or other hotels, and as stand-alone public baths known as sento (銭湯, sentō, lit. 'coin bath').  Some baths are placed outside in the open air, and in such cases are known as rotenburo (露天風呂, lit. 'open-air pool').  The layouts of different onsen may vary, but at a common level, are laid out something like this:

Public baths are used while naked, and are separated by gender for obvious reasons.  This precludes wrapping a towel around yourself, although there are often small washcloth-style towels, called tenugui (手拭い, lit. 'hand wipe'), which may be used, among other purposes, for some level of modesty while walking about.  There are a few onsen, mainly in rural areas, which offer mixed-gender baths.  (And yet, Japanese women, who tend to be more sensitive about sexual advances, prefer to avoid mixed baths altogether.)

In order to keep the water sanitary for everyone else, people who have any open cuts wounds are advised not to bathe in an onsen.  Also, especially for foreign visitors, it is important to note that many onsen do not allow customers with tattoos on their bodies to use the facilities.  This may have to do with deterring Yakuza mobsters who, as a stereotype, wear large-scale tattoos themselves.  If this affects you, you would do well to find out in advance whether or not your desired onsen will accept tattooed customers.  According to a survey conducted in 2015, just over half of onsen owners said they had a policy of turning away customers with tattoos, although acceptance of foreigners with small tattoos has slowly been rising in recent years. [1]  Onsen that are willing to allow guests with smaller tattoos may provide patches to cover them up with.

So with all that set up, there are a few customs you should observe during your onsen bath.  Here are the steps to take in doing so:

1. Enter the appropriate changing room.  The doors or curtains leading to the mens' side are marked by English words, the kanji "男", and/or the colour blue.  Likewise, for the ladies' side, look out for the kanji "女" and/or the colour red.
2. Inside the changing room, remove all your clothes and belongings and store them, either in a locker or a basket, whatever is provided.  If there are lockers, take the key and pull the cord onto your wrist or ankle.
3. Enter the bath room.  Before you to into the main bath, you must rinse yourself off first, since the bath is shared by many people.  Many onsen these days will have shower stations lined low along the walls.  It is enough just to wash yourself with water, but many people, especially younger bathers, choose to use the body wash, shampoo, and other amenities that may be provided.
1. In older onsen, there may only be a tap or a basin of water to rinse with.  Simply fill up a bucket of water and pour it over your head.
4. Once you're cleaned up, enter the bath itself.  The temperature of the bath will be hot, anywhere from 35 to 45 degrees Celsius (95 to 113 degrees Fahrenheit), so you may not be able to stand it for too long.  Up to five minutes at a time should be enough.  It helps if you soak your hand-towel with cold water and lay it atop your head, and if you do not move around.
5. Exit the bath and rinse yourself again at one of the showers.  If you did not already wash yourself fully, now would be a good time to do so.
6. If you wish, re-enter the bath for another soak.  If the facilities have multiple baths, such as an indoor and an outdoor one, now would be a good time to try out the other ones.
7. After finishing your last soak, do not rinse yourself off.  This will keep the minerals of the water within your body.
8. Return to the changing room, dry off, retrieve and put on your clothes.

If you are enjoying a bath as part of a stay at a ryokan, you will usually take a bath right before dinner.  These dinners, served either in your room or a communal dining room, will often feature many Japanese-style dishes using local and seasonal ingredients.  It is not recommended to use the bath after eating, but some people like to use them again right before bed and/or after waking up in the morning.

Now that you know how to take a bath at an onsen, you may want to learn the best places to experience them.  I shall address them with a list of the top ten onsen resorts in Japan, next time on Sekai Ichi!

[1] Ryall, Julian (6 November 2015). "Japanese owners of famous 'onsen' hot springs soften their stance on tattoo ban to appease foreign visitors". Archived from the original on 17 January 2016.