Top Ten Onsen Resort Towns

Edit 8 October 2019: Updated prices to reflect the increase in Japan's national sales tax.

Previously on Sekai Ichi, I described how to take a bath at an onsen, a common pastime for the Japanese.  The only question for those whom I may have interested is, where to do it?  Really, wherever there's water and a way to heat it, just about any place can serve as a good bath.  But some places go the extra mile, in terms of the feel of their waters, the variety of baths on offer, and the overall ambiance of the place.  That is how I'll be measuring my picks for the top ten onsen resort towns in Japan.

In towns like these, some spas are stand-alone public baths, while others are part of hotels or ryokan.  The latter do open their doors to non-staying visitors for a fee, while those who are already staying the night may use them free of charge.  Note that, for most places, towels will cost extra, unless you bring your own.  In the interest of fairness, and because I have not yet experienced many of these places in person, this list is ordered not by quality, but by geographic location, going from west to east.

1) Ibusuki, Kagoshima Prefecture

Sand bathers in Ibusuki, and the attendants who help them.
By Trinida (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

On the southern tip of mainland Japan, the Ibusuki (指宿) peninsula is home to a unique form of bathing: the sand bath.  In this experience, bathers dressed in yukata robes are buried up to their necks in geothermally-warmed sand for ten to twenty minutes at a time.  This is followed up by a more traditional hot-water bath.  Recommended baths:

• Saraku Sand Bath Hall.  World-famous for sand baths, held right on the beach.  Open from 8:30 AM to 9:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,080 for a sand bath, or ¥610 for a hot-spring bath only.  Website: (English)
• Healthy Land.  Includes large open-air baths along the coast, in addition to sand baths.  Open from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, or to 6:00 PM in July and August.  Costs ¥1,240 for a sand bath, or ¥830 for a hot-spring bath only.  Website: (English)

2) Beppu / Yufuin / Kurokawa Onsen, Oita Prefecture

The "Umi-jigoku" spring in Beppu.
By Totti (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

One of the most famous onsen destinations in all of Japan, Beppu (別府) is a collection of eight hot spring areas merged into one city.  There are no shortage of public and hotel baths to be found, and sand baths (described above) are also available at some locations.  Beyond that, Beppu's claim to fame is its so-called hells, open ponds of steaming hot spring water.  They are much too hot for bathing, but with their unearthly appearances, including hues of turquoise-blue, milky white, and even red-orange, visitors flock in just to see them up close.  Overall, it's a bit on the touristy side, so if that's not to your liking, you can hop on a bus to more refined onsen towns like Yufuin or Kurokawa Onsen.  Recommended baths:

• Takegawara.  A historic public bathhouse offering sand baths.  Open from 6:30 AM to 10:30 PM, closed on the 3rd Wednesday of December; sand bath open 8:00 AM to 10:30 PM, closed on the 3rd Wednesday of every month.  Costs ¥110, or ¥1,050 for a sand bath. Website: (English)
• Tanayu / Suginoi Hotel.  Includes rooftop open-air baths with wide views over the city, and a separate pool area, free with admission (swimsuits required).  Open to non-staying guests from 9:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,200 on weekdays, or ¥1,800 on weekends and holidays.  Website: (English)
• Onsen Hoyo Land.  Includes mud and steam baths, and a large, open-air mixed section.  Open 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,100.  Website: (Japanese)
• Shoya no Yakaya (Yufuin).  Uses vivid blue water, and offers beautiful views of the town below.  Open to non-staying visitors from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM.  Costs ¥800.  Website: (Japanese)
• Yamamizuki (Kurokawa Onsen).  A secluded, serene inn with riverside outdoor baths.  Open to non-staying guests from 8:30 AM to 9:00 PM.  Costs ¥500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

3) Dogo Onsen, Ehime Prefecture

The Dogo Onsen Honkan.
By Japanexperterna.se (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Situated less than three kilometres (2 miles) east of downtown Matsuyama, Dogo Onsen (道後温泉, Dōgo Onsen) is one of Japan's oldest hot springs, having been mentioned in legends dating back to the 6th century AD.  In more recent history, the town is famous for its eponymous public bathhouse, the Dogo Onsen Honkan.  Its architecture is a rabbit's warren of rooms and halls, including one bath room reserved for the Imperial Family.  In fact, this place was a key inspiration for the anime film Spirited Away, which takes place in a bathhouse/inn frequented by fantastical spiritual creatures.  Recommended baths:

• Dogo Onsen Honkan. Described above.  Offers multiple pricing packages, with upper tiers including green tea and use of private relaxation rooms.  Open from 6:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥420.  Website: (Japanese)
• Tsubaki-no-Yu.  A simple public bath using the same water source as the Honkan.  Open from 6:30 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥400.  Website: (Japanese)
• Asuka-no-Yu.  Newly opened in 2017, it resembles a modern take on the Honkan, and offers indoor baths and private relaxation rooms.  Open from 7:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥610 to ¥1,690.  Website: (Japanese)

4) Arima Onsen, Hyogo Prefecture

The Arima River banks near the front of town.
Taken on Saturday, 19 November 2016.

Like the previous entry, Arima Onsen (有馬温泉) is also steeped in history, despite being situated only a half-hour from modern Kobe.  It is famous for the two springs used throughout the town: the coppery "gold" water, and the clear "silver" water.  For my report on Arima Onsen, please read this article.  Recommended baths:

• Kin-no-Yu.  A public bathhouse using the "gold" water.  Open from 8:00 AM to 10:00 PM.  Closed on the 2nd and 4th Tuesdays of each month, and on 1 January.  Costs ¥650, or ¥850 for a combo ticket with Gin-no-Yu.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Gin-no-Yu.  A public bathhouse using the "silver" water.  Open from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM.  Closed on the 1st and 3rd Tuesdays of each month, and on 1 January.  Costs ¥550, or ¥850 for a combo ticket with Kin-no-Yu.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Taiko-no-Yu / Arima View Hotel.  A modern spa complex including both "gold" and "silver" water baths.  Open 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥2,640 on weekdays, or ¥2,860 on weekends and holidays.  Website: (Japanese)

5) Okuhida, Gifu Prefecture

The baths of Suimeikan Karukaya, in Shin-Hotaka Onsen.
By Soul of Japan [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

The Okuhida (奥飛騨) region is a collection of onsen towns nestled in the Japan Alps, between Takayama and Matsumoto.  Each of them, including (going uphill) Hirayu Onsen (平湯温泉), Shin-Hirayu Onsen (新平湯温泉), and Shin-Hotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉), use their own water sources.  Many of the outdoor baths in the area are set in beautiful forest landscapes.  While you're in the area, consider taking a ride up the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway, where you can just admire the view, or continue on to a number of challenging hiking trails.  Recommended baths:

• Hirayu-no-Mori (Hirayu Onsen).  Features a vast collection of outdoor baths nestled in the forest.  Open from 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Okuhida Garden Hotel Yakedake (Shin-Hirayu Onsen).  Features outdoor, mixed-gender baths with sulfur-tinted water.  Open to non-staying guests from Noon to 10:00 PM.  Costs ¥700.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Yarimikan (Shin-Hotaka Onsen).  A ryokan hotel featuring mixed-gender, open-air baths overlooking a river.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM.  Costs ¥500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

6) Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture

Lake Ashi, with the torii gate of Hakone Shrine, and Mount Fuji in the back.
By Kentagon [CC BY-SA 4.0], from Wikimedia Commons

Hakone (箱根) is one of the closest onsen towns to Tokyo.  As such, it features on many tourists' itineraries, but it warrants even multiple visits because it offers so much for guests to do.  During the day, there are many art museums, sightseeing cruises across Lake Ashi, and the volcanic valley Owakudani.  And then there are the dozen hot springs, feeding dozens upon dozens of baths.  Of course, it's not surprising that there is so much geothermal activity, since Mount Fuji is within 30km (20 mi.) away, and in good weather, can be seen from a number of spots around Hakone.  Despite the urbanised appearance of some establishments, especially around Hakone-Yumoto station, Hakone has a long and storied history as an onsen destination, and many of its outdoor baths nonetheless look out over tranquil forest landscapes.  Recommended baths:

• Hakone Yuryo.  A newer public onsen with baths overlooking a forested valley.  Open from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM (to 10PM on weekends).  Costs ¥1,500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Hotel Kowaki-en Yunessun.  A water park with uniquely-themed baths and pools (swimsuits required).  Open from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM.  Costs ¥2,500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Mori-no-Yu.  An annex of Yunessun, offering a more traditional onsen experience (no swimsuits).  Open from 11:00 AM to 8:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,500, or ¥3,500 in combination with Yunessun.
• Hakone Green Plaza Hotel.  One of the (surprisingly) few outdoor baths in Hakone with views of Mt. Fuji.  Open to non-staying guests from 1:00 PM to 6:00 PM (opens at 3:00 PM on Wednesdays and Thursdays, closes at 3:00 PM on weekends).  Costs ¥1,600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

7) Kusatsu Onsen / Manza Onsen, Gunma Prefecture

The yubatake (water field) in Kusatsu Onsen.
By くろふね [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Another pair of onsen towns near Tokyo, Kusatsu (草津) and Manza Onsen (万座温泉) stand on opposite sides of Mount Shirane (草津白根山, Kusatsu Shirane-san), an active volcano with hiking or skiing opportunities in the appropriate seasons.  Kusatsu Onsen is famous for its yubatake (湯畑), the "field" where hot water, direct from the spring, gets air-cooled.  Another method of water cooling called "yumomi" (湯もみ), which involves stirring the water with large paddles, has been turned into a regular public show.  Manza Onsen, meanwhile, is one of the best places to take a bath in snowy weather, due to its high elevation (1,800 meters / 5,900 feet), while its sulfuric waters have numerous health benefits.  Recommended baths:

• Sainokawara Rotemburo (Kusatsu Onsen).  Massive open-air baths in the middle of a forest near town.  Open from 7:00 AM to 8:00 PM; opens at 9:00 AM from December through March.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Otaki-no-Yu (Kusatsu Onsen).  A public bathhouse in town, including side-by-side tubs of different temperatures.  Open from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM.  Costs ¥900.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Nisshinkan / Manza Hotel (Manza Onsen).  The outdoor baths have wonderful views over the valley.  Open for non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Costs ¥1,000.  Website: (English) (Japanese)

8) Ginzan Onsen, Yamagata Prefecture

The Notoya ryokan at night.
By Eiji Kikuta (AG2016) from Sendai, Japan [CC0 or CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

Ginzan Onsen (銀山温泉) gets its name from the silver mine it used to be famous for (Ginzan, or 銀山, means "silver mountain").  Once those fortunes dried up, the town rebuilt itself as an onsen destination.  Many of its buildings, straddling both sides of a river, are constructed in turn-of-the-century-style architecture.  Combined with the gaslights placed around town, this evokes a very romantic atmosphere, especially at night, in the snow, or in the snow at night.  Recommended baths:

• Shirogane-yu.  A public bathhouse designed by architect Kuma Kengo. Open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Costs ¥500.  Website: (English)
• Ginzan-so.  A hotel near the front of town, with open-air baths overlooking a river.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 1:30 PM.  Costs ¥1,000.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Takimi-kan.  A ryokan nestled in the woods a short walk from town, with gorgeous outdoor baths.  Open to non-staying guests from 11:00 AM to 2:00 PM.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (Japanese)

9) Nyuto Onsen, Akita Prefecture

The outdoor mixed bath of Tsurunoyu Onsen, in wintertime.
By Fumiaki Yoshimatsu from Tokyo, Japan (Akita) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Nyuto Onsen (乳頭温泉) is the largest and most accessible of several hot-spring areas in the geothermically-active Hachimantai region.  All the baths in town belong to different ryokan, some of them charmingly rustic, and are open to staying and non-staying guests alike.  Due to its northern latitude, Nyuto Onsen is another wonderful place to bathe in snowy weather, which can last as late as April.  Going even deeper into the mountains brings you to additional springs such as Tamagawa Onsen (玉川温泉), home of the most acidic (and therapeutic) spring water in Japan.  Recommended baths:

• Tsurunoyu Onsen. The oldest onsen in the area, famous for its large outdoor mixed bath.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM; closed on Mondays.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Taenoyu Onsen. Includes outdoor mixed baths overlooking a nearby river.  Open to non-staying guests from 10:00 AM to 3:00 PM; closed on Tuesdays.  Costs ¥800.  Website: (Japanese)
• Kuroyu Onsen. Includes outdoor mixed baths with nice sunset views of the surrounding woods.  Open to non-staying guests from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM.  Closed from early November to mid-April.  Costs ¥600.  Website: (Japanese)

10) Noboribetesu, Hokkaido

The jigokudani of Noboribetsu.
By 663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

The largest and most famous onsen resort on Hokkaido, Noboribetsu (登別) is a veritable hotspot, literally and otherwise, of geothermal activity.  Eleven different water sources supply the town, with the different baths offering their own combinations of such.  These waters come from the jigokudani (地獄谷, lit. 'hell valley'), a barren landscape of steam vents.  Hiking trails from town lead here and to other places of volcanic beauty, including a heated river which serves as a natural footbath.  Elsewhere, don't forget to visit Porotokotan, an open-air museum about the indigenous Ainu people, only a couple of train stops away.  Recommended baths:

• Daiichi Takimoto-kan.  Makes the quite-plausible claim of being the largest spa in Asia.  Its many baths use seven water sources, each with different mineral and healing properties.  Open to non-staying guests from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM.  Costs ¥2,000, or ¥1,500 after 4:00 PM.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
  
• Noboribetsu Grand Hotel. Includes indoor Romanesque baths, and outdoor baths overlooking a small waterfall.  Open to non-staying guests from 12:30 PM to 8:00 PM; opens at 2:30 PM on Mondays and Thursdays.  Costs ¥1,500.  Website: (English) (Japanese)
• Sagiriyu.  The only public bathhouse in town.  Open from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, or to 9:00 PM from November to March.  Costs ¥420.  Website: (Japanese)

Before the wildcard, here are some honourable mentions.

• Kinosaki Onsen, Hyogo Prefecture.  A nostalgia-inducing onsen town near the Sea of Japan coast, with buildings straddling both sides of a willow-lined canal.
• Gero Onsen, Gifu Prefecture.  An urbanised, but no less popular onsen town, and an easy day trip or stayover from Nagoya.
• Shibu Onsen, Nagano Prefecture.  This town is right next door to Yamanouchi, home of the bathing snow monkeys.  In fact, you may even see a few monkeys wandering down into town, although they generally have the good sense to stay out of the humans' baths.
• Minakami, Gunma Prefecture.  A loose collection of baths around the woods of Mount Tanigawa.  The region's highlight is the spacious mixed-bath of Takaragawa Onsen, the closest of its kind to Tokyo.  Speaking of...
• Oedo Onsen, Tokyo.  A modern public bath on one of the Odaiba islands, done up in Edo-period decor.  Its natural spring water is piped in from over 1.4 kilometres (4,600 feet) beneath the Earth's surface.

Wildcard) Spa World, Osaka

By DVMG [CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

For this list I have stuck with naturally-occurring hot spring locations, but for my wildcard slot, I have to break that trend and share one of my personal favourite onsen experiences.  Spa World, in the Shinsekai district of Osaka, has many different themed baths split between the European and Asian zones.  The catch is that these zones are segregated between men and women, and are switched between the two in alternating months, so it is worth visiting twice to get the full experience.  This place also includes a mixed pool and water park (swimsuits required), massage services, and a gym.  I have also visited Spa World myself; you may read about it here.  Open from 10:00 AM to 8:45 AM the following morning.  Costs ¥1,200 on weekdays, or ¥1,500 on weekends.