Matsumoto Nakamachi District

This article is based on a visit made on Saturday, 19 May 2018.

Previously on Sekai Ichi, I visited Matsumoto Castle during a brief stopover on my way back to Tokyo.  But rather than leave it at that, I spent some time at Nakamachi (中町), the merchant district which grew in the Edo period, under the auspices of the castle's lords.

Nakamachi is famous for its style of storehouse, or kura (蔵), architecture.  Key aspects of the kura style are thick, white-washed, earthen walls, black tile roofs, and lattice grid patterns along the sides.  Kura are a common site in many of Japan's old towns, as their sturdy construction was an invaluable method of keeping rice and other stockpiles safe and secure.  Further examples, authentic or less so, can be seen scattered about the city, even at this convenience store across from the entrance to Matsumoto Castle.

On the way we passed an old bookstore designed after the black-and-white castle.  It looked all the more surreal squeezed in between two modern rectangular buildings.  To the right is a souvenir store where my grandmother found a temari handball for one of her friends, having fallen in love with the things at first sight in Kanazawa.

Heading down from Matsumoto Castle, our path took us to two parallel streets on either side of the Metoba River.  Just along the north side of the river is Nawate-dori (縄手通り).  This lane of shops was set up in the Meiji period, attracting visitors on their way to the nearby Yohashira Shrine (四柱神社).  This arrangement is similar to what sprang up around Senso-ji in Tokyo or Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.

Nawate-dori is commonly known as "Frog Street", and the reason behind this association is a pun.  The Japanese word for frog, "kaeru" (蛙/かえる), sounds the same as a form of "to buy" (買える), which shop owners called out to potential customers passing by.

Moving on, Nakamachi-dori presents a completely different vibe at first.  The wider road, the bright white walls of the kura buildings, and the beautiful weather of this particular day all give it an open, airy feel in comparison to Nawate-dori.

Nakamachi-dori hosts a wide selection of restaurants.  The cuisines on offer include Japanese kaiseki, izakaya pubs, noodles, bakeries, and Korean barbecue.  Our choice for lunch was Hawaiian Dining Hula-la, a Hawaiian-themed burger joint, as the name implies.

I was intrigued to find sugidama, decorations on the front of sake breweries that were prevalent in Takayama's old town, here in Matsumoto as well.  As it turns out, this sugidama belongs to a community centre called the Nakamachi Kurassic-kan (中町 蔵シック館), a pun using the word for warehouse, "kura", as part of "kurasshiku", the Japanese spelling of "classic".

---

663highland / CC BY-SA

Nakamachi also has an eclectic assortment of museums, which we regrettably eschewed in favour of returning to Tokyo sooner.  In the middle of Nakamachi-dori is a Weights and Scales Museum, and just past the west exit, across the main road, is the Matsumoto Timepiece Museum (shown above).  With a giant grandfather clock built above the entrance, you can't miss it.

By 663highland [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY 2.5], from Wikimedia Commons

A short walk from the far exit of Nakamachi will bring you to the Matsumoto City Art Museum (松本市美術館, Matsumoto-shi Bijutsukan), which I featured on my list of Japan's top ten contemporary art museums.  It hosts the works of local artists of the past and present, from sculptures to calligraphy to the festive pop art of Yayoi Kusama (草間彌生, b.1929).

TAKA@P.P.R.S / CC BY-SA

For one last pic to brighten your day, even the vending machines at Matsumoto City Art Museum are coated in Kusama's signature polka-dot pattern, as are the top-right row of cans.  Pity that they don't seem to be for sale, since that would make for one stylish can of Coke.  But whatever; I've got further business to wrap up back in Tokyo, next time on Sekai Ichi!

---

Directions: To go by bus, take the East Town Sneaker bus from Matsumoto Station's Oshiro-guchi exit to Kura-no-machi Namakachi (5 minutes, ¥200).

To go by foot, start from Matsumoto Station's Oshiro-guchi exit and head straight down the main road.  After 5 minutes, turn left at the fourth traffic light (Fukashi 2-chome / 深志二丁目), then continue straight for 4 minutes.  The entrance to Nakamachi-dori will be on the right.  Nawate-dori is the second right afterwards, just past the bridge.

Hawaiian Dining Hula-la

Hours: Open from 11:30 AM to 10:00 PM, or to 11:00 PM on Saturdays and holidays.  Last orders end 1 hour before closing time.  No regular closing days.

Address: 2-5-13 Chuo, Matsumoto, Nagano 〒390-0811

Directions: From the Kura-no-machi Nakamachi bus stop, turn around and start towards the main road.  About halfway down the block, the restaurant will be on the left side.

Website: (Japanese)

Matsumoto Timepiece Museum

Hours: Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Admission ends 30 minutes before closing time.  Closed on Mondays and from 29 December to 3 January.

Costs: ¥300.

Address: 1-21-15 Chuo, Matsumoto-shi, Nagano-ken 〒390-0811

Directions: From the Kura-no-machi Nakamachi bus stop, turn around and head towards the main road.  Cross it, turn right, then take the next left.  The museum will be on the left side, at the next corner.

Website: (Japanese)

Matsumoto City Art Museum

Hours: Open from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Closed Mondays and from 29 December to 2 January.

Cost: ¥410.

Address: 4-2-20 Chuo, Matsumoto-shi, Nagano-ken 〒390-0811

Access: From Matsumoto Station, take the East Town Sneaker bus to Matsumoto-shi Bijutsukan (16 minutes, ¥200).

Directions: To walk to the museum from the Kura-no-machi Nakamachi bus stop, head straight down the street (300m) until you reach the stoplight at the other end, and turn right.  Continue on (300m) to the next traffic light and turn left.  Continue on (300m), and the museum will be on your left, past the next traffic light.

Website: (English) (Japanese)