This article is based on a visit made on Monday, 21 November 2016.
Edit 8 October 2019: Updated prices to reflect the increase in Japan's national sales tax.
Hiroshima Castle (広島城,
Hiroshima-jō) is a reconstructed castle with a main keep and several outer walls. The original castle, which was destroyed in the atomic bombing, was constructed in the late 16th century under Mori Terumoto. He was subsequently booted out, however, and eventually the castle was occupied by Asano Nagaakira (the same man who created the nearby Shukkei-en). His clan occupied the castle, and ruled the local provinces, for 250 years, after which it was transferred to the new Japanese state. The castle keep you see today was reconstructed in 1958. Hiroshima Castle is also known as the Carp Castle (鯉城,
Ri-jō). The carp seems to have a strong association with Hiroshima, as it also graces the name of their pro baseball team (
Hiroshima Toyo Carp), but I'm not sure why.
If you're walking up to the castle from the south, then you will find this fountain by the entrance. The statue atop is called "Flower Spirit" (花の精,
Hana no Sei).
Beyond that fountain, turn right and pass under the Ninomaru gate. When the main tower was reconstructed in the '50s, it was largely made up of concrete, although wood panelling was added to the exterior to replicate the appearance of the original. This gate, along with a
yagura turret nearby, were more faithfully rebuilt decades later, using the original construction techniques and materials.
A moat surrounds the main (Honmaru) and smaller (Ninomaru) islands that make up the castle grounds. There used to be two additional moats surrounding the castle, outside the existing one, but they were filled in at some point after the Meiji Restoration. Just think -- a good chunk of the urban development in Hiroshima lies in what used to be the castle's land! In addition to the moats, the many rivers streaming down the delta would have provided another layer of natural defence, which is part of what made this location such an attractive one for Mori-san to build his castle all those years ago.
On the other hand, if you take the Maple-oop bus to the castle, it will drop you off at the east entrance. You will be greeted by this statue of
Hayato Ikeda (池田 勇人,
Ikeda Hayato, 1899-1965), a former Prime Minister of Japan from 1960 to 1964. He was born in a town in Hiroshima Prefecture, and represented this prefecture in the Diet congress during his political career.
There were additional buildings constructed within the castle walls, but they have been lost to the bomb. These include a headquarters of the Imperial Japanese Army, as Hiroshima's location was a strategic advantage for many of Japan's military actions back in the day, starting with the
first Sino-Japanese War (1894-95). In fact, near the end of World War II, a couple of Japan's army units were stationed there as defence in case the Allies invaded the Japanese mainland. That, of course, never happened.
Gokoku Shrine (広島護国神社,
Hiroshima Gokoku-jinja) is a Shinto Shrine that occupies a corner of castle grounds. It has been moved twice: once in the 1930s, and again to its current location after it was destroyed by the atomic bomb. For Hiroshimans, it is a popular choice for
hatsumode visits on New Year's Day, and for Shichi-Go-San in November. But not so much this time around, maybe because it was the afternoon of a school day.
The interior of the castle is now taken up by a history museum, mainly focused on the construction of the original castle. Photography is not allowed throughout most of the museum, except for a few exhibits on the second floor (shown above), and the observatory at the top.
From the open-air deck on the fifth floor, you can see out in all directions. To the west are mostly government offices. The tower right across the moat is a broadcast tower used by RCC, a local television station and an affiliate of TBS (Tokyo Broadcast System).
Meanwhile, to the south, the sleek sloped roof belongs to the Hiroshima Prefectural Sports Center, a.k.a. the Hiroshima Green Arena, a sport and event stadium. Also in this direction are the Hiroshima Museum of Art and the Peace Park, the latter of which I headed to next.
But before that, my sign-off selfie. Back down on the first floor, there are a few kimonos and pieces of samurai armour you can try on. So of course I did. Unfortunately, I noticed I lost my hat after leaving Hiroshima Castle, and while I didn't notice at the time, I think I may have left it behind while I had this picture taken. I would have gone back to look for it, but I was in a rush to catch the next bus. Still, first world problems, amirite? I was about to learn some much-needed perspective from my next stop, the Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum, next time on Sekai Ichi!
Hours: Open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM; closes at 5:00 PM from November to March, and at 7:00 PM during Golden Week and O-Bon holidays. Admission ends 30 minutes before closing time. Closed from 29 to 31 December.
Costs: Admission to the main keep is ¥370. The surrounding grounds are free to enter.
Address: 21-1 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, Hiroshima-ken 〒730-0011
Access: From Hiroshima Station, take tram line
1,
2, or
3 to Kamiyacho-nishi (M9, 15 minutes, ¥190). Walk north for 10 minutes to reach the Ninomaru gate. Alternatively, take tram line 1, 2, or 6 to Hatchobori (M7), transfer to tram line
9, get off at Shukkeien-mae (W3, 15 minutes, ¥190), and walk 5 minutes to the east entrance.
Hiroshima Castle is also a stop on the Maple-oop bus. From Hiroshima Station, take the Orange or Lemon line bus to Hiroshima Castle / Hiroshima Gokoku Shrine (8 minutes, ¥200, JR Pass OK). The Green line bus does not stop at the castle. The closest stop on the Green line, Kencho-mae (13 minutes, ¥200, JR Pass OK), is 10 minutes away on foot.
Website:
(Japanese)
