This article is based on a visit made on Monday, 21 November 2016.
Edit 8 October 2019: Updated prices to reflect the increase in Japan's national sales tax.
Shukkei-en (縮景園) is a landscape garden in Hiroshima. The name "Shukkei-en" means "shrunken-scenery garden", which is a reflection of the many miniature mountains, valleys, and rivers that have been sculpted into this park. It was constructed in 1620 under the direction of the regional feudal lord,
Asano Nagaakira (浅野 長晟, 1586-1632). In fact, the Asano family kept a villa here, until the park was sold off to Hiroshima Prefecture in 1940 and opened to the public.
I had not intended to spend time in Shukkei-en, instead planning to head straight for Hiroshima Castle. But since it was early and the bus stop for Shukkei-en was on the way, I figured I might as well spend some time there. I also noticed that it seemed to be a popular season for newlywed couples to have their picture taken. I generally stayed away from them, in the interest of privacy, but some couples managed to fit into a wide shot here and there. I know if I lived in Hiroshima and got married, I might like to do the same, too...!
The landscape of Shukkei-en is dominated by a large pond, which all the paths loop around. It is cut across the middle by an arched stone bridge, called the Rainbow Bridge (跨虹橋,
Kokō-bashi). It's a great place for feeding the many carp who showed up to meet us.
A small shrine of some sort sits atop this small hill, presiding over a simple red torii gate. Do you think this could have been inspired by
Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto?
Looking out over these verdant rolling hills, and meditating over the name and purpose of this garden, I realise that is a distinct possibility.
I've seen trees wrapped with bamboo or straw sleeves before, but this might be overdoing it! Or maybe not... If you're doing this to keep your trees warm in the winter, you may as well go all in.
Head back towards the riverbank, and you will find some smaller, specialised gardens, including yet another thicket of bamboo. This one had a ginkgo leaf which was suspended by a spiderweb thread, but if you look at it from far enough away, it looks like it's just hanging in mid-air!
That "floating" leaf may have come from this ginkgo tree, which is 200 years old. As Shukkei-en was close to the atomic bomb's epicentre, many plants and buildings in the park were destroyed (it got renovated and re-opened in 1951), but this is one of the few trees that survived. Its twisted trunk tells a tale of tragedy, but every year it still manages to turn its many leaves a golden yellow. Its seeds have been sent all over the world as an offering of peace.
Speaking of colours, let's lighten the mood with some of my favourite pictures of autumnally-tinged trees. This was another candidate for the best tree I saw on my holiday, with a fiery orange core shifting to a cherry-red tone towards the outside, where the leaves are more exposed to the elements.
Sometimes, they can seem all the more bright simply by being placed in front of contrasting colours, such as the olive greens of pine-tree needles.
The same can be true even when layering different autumnal hues against each other. I think I captured the whole spectrum in this shot!
A close-up of some maple leaves. Maples have been heavily associated with Hiroshima and nearby Miyajima island. Momiji-manju (もみじ饅頭,
momiji manjū), a traditional treat made in both places, is a pastry moulded into the shape of a maple leaf. And of course, the loop bus which I used to get here is called the Maple-oop.
No sign-off selfie today, but I do have this lovely wide shot across the pond, with a suitably symmetrical reflection shown in the water below. Just like that one picture I took at
Koishikawa Koraku-en in Tokyo. Come to think of it, there are quite a few similarities between the two parks, as they are also arranged around a large pond, and have taken inspiration from other landscape features of Japan. Shukkei-en was more memorable for the brightness and variety of autumn colours on display, although that may have more to do with when I visited.
After visiting Shukkei-en, you may be interested in paying a visit to the Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum, which showcases artists from the local region. But as for me, I went back on track and continued to Hiroshima Castle. Find out more, next time on Sekai Ichi!
Hours: Open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM; loses at 5:00 PM from November to March. Admission ends 30 minutes before closing time. Closed from 29 to 31 December.
Costs: ¥260.
Address: 2-11 Kaminobori-chō, Naka-ku, Hiroshima-shi, Hiroshima-ken 〒730-0014
Access: From Hiroshima Station, take tram line
1,
2, or
6 to Hatchobori (M7), transfer to tram line
9, and get off at Shukkeien-mae (W3, 15-20 minutes, ¥190).
Shukkei-en is also a stop on the Maple-oop bus. From Hiroshima Station, take the Orange or Lemon line bus to Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum / Shukkei-en (6 minutes, ¥200, JR Pass OK). The Green line bus also stops at Shukkei-en, but it leaves from Hiroshima Station in the opposite direction, and thus takes much longer (30 minutes) to get there.
Website:
(English) (Japanese)
